La Tour Eiffel

Today was a good day. For starters, we found an excellent wine shop just around the corner from our hotel. Very, very close to our hotel – and they speak English. This could be good or this could go down bad.

Today we found irrefutable proof that we were – in fact – in Paris. To me there’s only one way to do that which is get a view of the Eiffel Tower. Our hotel is in the Marais near the Place de la Bastille, so we started walking in that direction, wound down to the Seine, crossed to the left bank over the Pont de Sully and fell upon the vibrant gardens of the Jardin des Plantes.

Along the way I noticed that everyone was bundled up like it was winter. What’s up with that? Yes it’s May and it is cool and overcast, but I didn’t see snow anywhere (certainly not 3 feet of it) so I didn’t really get what everyone was all freaking out about. But all the women had really cool scarves – some of the men too – so…

I’m practically a Parisian, non?

Continuing our meandering through the 5th arrondisement, we strolled the Arènes de Lutèce (remains of a Roman Arena in Paris) and then over to the Place du Panthéon. Pretty Cool.

Along the way we started to gather provisions – things that go with wine.

I just followed that blue pack with the lovely baguette popping out, knowing there was cheese and some lovely salami-type thing keeping that bread company. 

Finally, it was time to cut to the chase so we got on the Métro and zipped over to where the Eiffel Tower is supposed to be.

Et Violà! There it was. This fantastic city must really be Paris.

It was there – along with something like 1 Billion tourists waiting in line to go up the tower. Everything I’ve heard is that going up in the tour is a pretty over-rated so we just walked underneath through the crowds

and out onto the Parc du Champ-de-Mars (the park in front of the tour).

Oh and Boneless Rabbit made it too.

Ok, now the fun can truly begin. By that I mean…Picnic Time.

After that we got back on the metro and came back to the hotel for a break. Later we went back out and back down to the Seine where we unknowingly crashed an antique show (didn’t know there was an entrance fee - oops) and wandered around for awhile.

That evening it was finally time to meet our Tour Group. Introductions were made and we picked our Buddies – mine is Kathleen and Ted’s is Betsy – two really cool ladies who are old friends traveling together. They have great potential as Comrades in Trouble and especially Tour Drinking Buddies. An excellent find for sure.

















The group went for a little orientation walk into the Marais and including the Place des Vosges. Then we had our first group dinner at Café des Musées not too far from our hotel, which was pretty good food but not that memorable. It might have been that we were a big group and the meal was picked ahead of time. What was memorable from that first meal was the fellowship – we sat with Kathleen and Betsy, plus Carol – an energetic Lady of the First Order - and Gloria who is very nice.

After we all walked back to our hotel – Ted and I made one last trip out to Le Baron Rouge, a Cave (wine bar) that we had read about in the Washington Post. Got there just before they closed and had a nice glass of wine. It was a cool little hole in the wall with an interesting crowd so we have to get back there again before this is over.

Ok – we are definitely in Paris and definitely getting into the groove.

Next up, definitely need to exercise more to counteract large quantities of French Bread and French Wine.

Bonne nuit.
C

Sommes-nous à Paris?

We made it. I think.

Transatlantic travel in cattle-class, even Air France, is tough. You can't ever get comfortable. It's either too hot or too cold. And at our age, going without sleep for 24+ hours can make you feel a little rough around the edges. Air France does it better than our American airlines, I'll give them that. Real Food Was Served...with Wine. It was good and didn't cost extra. Try to find that on United in the back of the plane. But still, when we arrived we felt, well, scruffy.

All that withstanding, we made it with all our luggage - even Boneless Rabbit. Unpronounable Volcanic Ash cannot keep us from Paris.  I think.

It kind of looks like many other European cities. Except for everyone speaking rapid French (or Greek, I'm not sure...just goes to show you that 100s of hours spent with Rosetta Stone did not help me...no one is standing next to a yellow bicycle asking "What is she riding?" Un vélo jaune!). Well, how do we know we are really in Paris?

Not much time to explore when we arrived on Friday. The most important thing to do first was, of course, get provisioned and have our fist French meal. Then we had dinner reservations at a nearby restaurant called Bistrot de l'Oulette. Based on a recommendation from the friendly hotel receptionist, Eskender, and some good reviews found on Chowhound.com, we had a very memoralbe first meal. Are you ready?

We chose the bistro over the restaurant - same chef, lower price, less formal - and selected the fixed price menu for dinner - only 33€ for an entrée (starter), plat (main course), and dessert. Pretty good deal. I did not tell Boneless Rabbit (kept her in my purse) as I ordered Salade d'effiloché de lapin à l'estragon avec croûtons aux oignons rouges which basically translates to succulent shredded rabbit with tarrogon red onions on toasted bread. This had a very clean, fresh taste which the carmelized red onions on the toast went really well.

The other starter was a fantastic brick croustillant au fromage de chèvre avec crevettes et cumin - or to us heathens - crispy pastry filled with goat cheese and shrimp mixed with cumin. Délicieux...Ok, get ready for the main courses...

First up, what everyone on Chowhound raved about...Cassoulet maison aux confits. This was comforting bean stew with duck, pork, and sausages. Every cook who ever secretly called themselves a chef has tried to make Cassoulet - some succeed, many fail. This chef had it just right. Ted and I fought over this one. Warm, deep complex flavor, and good to the last spoonful.

But not to be outdone was the other main... Magret de canard rôti, jus au port. Duck breast with port. Say no more just move over and let me in. Even as good as that was, it was almost outshone by what accompanied it...the smell of the creamy potatoes au gratin was divine. It wafted up from the plate and made me just hum - yum. That dish we had to split evenly or there would have been a fight.

Dessert we both agreed and ordered the same thing based on online reviews - Croustade aux pomme carmélisées, granité à l'Armagnac. Ok, right there from the French name you know anything with semi-frozen alcohol must be good. It was. We savored each bite.

Even after all that great food, I still wasn't sure we were in Paris. I need to see the Eiffel Tour in person. Then I'll know. 

But, sleep happens to weary, well fed, semi-tipsy travelers, so that must wait until Saturday.

Bonne nuit.

C

Un voyage en France

In just a few short weeks, we are off again. This time it's Paris and Southern France in late May and into early June. We had such a great time in Italy in 2008 that at first we thought we'd go back there again. Spain was also in the running as well as Turkey and Greece. Then came the movie Julie and Julia and we read Julia Child's book My Life in France. That closed the deal. She loved food as much as we do and so after falling for Paris through her experiences we knew we had to go. That and the Provence region has always held a soft spot in my heart (more on that later...)

Once again you are invited to follow the Boneless Rabbit on her adventures. So stay tuned, mark this spot, and get ready to follow the Rabbit Trail for 3 weeks through the beauty of France. There may be some food and wine involved. Not sure, but there's always that possibility given our past experiences. Just check out the Italy blog posts ;)