Sommes-nous à Paris?

We made it. I think.

Transatlantic travel in cattle-class, even Air France, is tough. You can't ever get comfortable. It's either too hot or too cold. And at our age, going without sleep for 24+ hours can make you feel a little rough around the edges. Air France does it better than our American airlines, I'll give them that. Real Food Was Served...with Wine. It was good and didn't cost extra. Try to find that on United in the back of the plane. But still, when we arrived we felt, well, scruffy.

All that withstanding, we made it with all our luggage - even Boneless Rabbit. Unpronounable Volcanic Ash cannot keep us from Paris.  I think.

It kind of looks like many other European cities. Except for everyone speaking rapid French (or Greek, I'm not sure...just goes to show you that 100s of hours spent with Rosetta Stone did not help me...no one is standing next to a yellow bicycle asking "What is she riding?" Un vélo jaune!). Well, how do we know we are really in Paris?

Not much time to explore when we arrived on Friday. The most important thing to do first was, of course, get provisioned and have our fist French meal. Then we had dinner reservations at a nearby restaurant called Bistrot de l'Oulette. Based on a recommendation from the friendly hotel receptionist, Eskender, and some good reviews found on Chowhound.com, we had a very memoralbe first meal. Are you ready?

We chose the bistro over the restaurant - same chef, lower price, less formal - and selected the fixed price menu for dinner - only 33€ for an entrée (starter), plat (main course), and dessert. Pretty good deal. I did not tell Boneless Rabbit (kept her in my purse) as I ordered Salade d'effiloché de lapin à l'estragon avec croûtons aux oignons rouges which basically translates to succulent shredded rabbit with tarrogon red onions on toasted bread. This had a very clean, fresh taste which the carmelized red onions on the toast went really well.

The other starter was a fantastic brick croustillant au fromage de chèvre avec crevettes et cumin - or to us heathens - crispy pastry filled with goat cheese and shrimp mixed with cumin. Délicieux...Ok, get ready for the main courses...

First up, what everyone on Chowhound raved about...Cassoulet maison aux confits. This was comforting bean stew with duck, pork, and sausages. Every cook who ever secretly called themselves a chef has tried to make Cassoulet - some succeed, many fail. This chef had it just right. Ted and I fought over this one. Warm, deep complex flavor, and good to the last spoonful.

But not to be outdone was the other main... Magret de canard rôti, jus au port. Duck breast with port. Say no more just move over and let me in. Even as good as that was, it was almost outshone by what accompanied it...the smell of the creamy potatoes au gratin was divine. It wafted up from the plate and made me just hum - yum. That dish we had to split evenly or there would have been a fight.

Dessert we both agreed and ordered the same thing based on online reviews - Croustade aux pomme carmélisées, granité à l'Armagnac. Ok, right there from the French name you know anything with semi-frozen alcohol must be good. It was. We savored each bite.

Even after all that great food, I still wasn't sure we were in Paris. I need to see the Eiffel Tour in person. Then I'll know. 

But, sleep happens to weary, well fed, semi-tipsy travelers, so that must wait until Saturday.

Bonne nuit.

C

Un voyage en France

In just a few short weeks, we are off again. This time it's Paris and Southern France in late May and into early June. We had such a great time in Italy in 2008 that at first we thought we'd go back there again. Spain was also in the running as well as Turkey and Greece. Then came the movie Julie and Julia and we read Julia Child's book My Life in France. That closed the deal. She loved food as much as we do and so after falling for Paris through her experiences we knew we had to go. That and the Provence region has always held a soft spot in my heart (more on that later...)

Once again you are invited to follow the Boneless Rabbit on her adventures. So stay tuned, mark this spot, and get ready to follow the Rabbit Trail for 3 weeks through the beauty of France. There may be some food and wine involved. Not sure, but there's always that possibility given our past experiences. Just check out the Italy blog posts ;)

Pompeii Found

Life crept back in fast. Here it is almost 2 months since we got back from Italy and I'm just now getting a chance to add Pompeii and Naples, the last two cities on our magnificent trip - let alone Andre Bocelli! Don't worry, I found the time... and here is Pompeii.

On Thursday, Oct 23rd, we packed up from Sorrento and got back on the bus for just about our last trip with Mauritzio. Arriving at the entrance to Pompeii - the city made famous by its centuries long preservation in the ash of Mt. Vesuvius - we were a little early for our appointment with our tour guide, so first a little late morning pick-me-up... .

Donato got this wine from the lady who runs the public toilets (I think he actually called it Toilet Wine). It was... interesting, as was the restroom itself. Another public toilet experience to remember. We were all very curious as to the circumstances that caused this particular sign.

Well of course it is!!

We also had time to get to know some of the locals selling interesting trinkets. These guys posed for Ted (no comments please)! A little Caribinari Cheesecake...

Then we met our guide Gaetano... looks good, no? Gaetano did a fantastic job guiding us through the streets of Pompeii - turning ruins into homes, fast food joints, and brothels. He helped us see the city through the eyes of the people who lived there before Pompeii was destroyed and completely buried during a long catastrophic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius spanning two days in 79 AD. This is the forum with Mt. Vesuvius looming in the distance.

The theory is that these columns were still being repaired from an earlier quake in 62 AD.

I loved it... The pack...

The line up...

Running the gauntlet...

Special commentary from Tom!

This is a fresco depicting fertility-imagery, really! Get your mind out of the gutter...

Ah the famous Brothel... advertising is everything. We saw much more of this the next day in the Naples museum.

Can you believe all this was hidden under ash and pumice - lost for nearly 1700 years? It was only accidentally rediscovered by an architect who was digging a new course for the river Sarno. But it took more than 150 years before a serious effort was started to unearth both Pompeii and Herculaneum, its sister city. The place is huge! Only about two-thirds of the city has been excavated but what we saw was impressive.

Roman baths anyone?

Ok, so after the tour we were tired and dusty (and now we understood the sign in the public restroom!!). Luckily, there was a lovely store selling ice-cold Limoncello. (They also sold Murano glass so I was very happy.) Ted picked up a bottle for the gang...very refreshing!

So at this point we had to say goodbye to our good friend Mauritzio, our bus driver. For Ted and I, it was especially sad as he had been our driver the whole trip - through both tours.

We miss him! Mauritzio...our brother!

And our home away from home...his bus...

Ok, very good day. We found Pompeii. Very cool. On to Naples!!

Chow for now!

Carolina and Boneless Rabbit!